Our team spent weeks — years, really — developing “less-meatarian” recipes, classics that de-emphasized meat and rely preeminently on vegetables, grains, and legumes. Both the Food Matters and VB6 cookbooks feature those kinds of recipes, and the style has mightily influenced our cooking for more than 10 years now.

For those times you find yourself saying, “Shit! What’s for dinner?” — we’re here to help. For our fourth installment of what to eat this week, we’ve got three meals in a bowl, all easy, nourishing, and warm. It’s just what we need this week.

First, a twist on a classic: Capture the nostalgia and satisfaction of chicken noodle soup with legit shortcuts. Next up, a gumbo. Yes, you have to make a roux; no, it won’t take that long. Finally, for the roux-averse, a speedy vegetarian chowder that uses the thickening power of potatoes.

Hot and Sour Chicken Noodle Soup

Makes: 4 servings
Time: 30…

My/our positions on the hot issues of our time are not exactly hidden, although we mostly talk about food. But for the last 15 years, I have maintained that hiding behind the fun and excitement of “food” and cooking is cowardly: How food is produced, how it’s processed, and what we eat are about how we treat the land, each other, and ourselves. It matters, and so food policy matters.

So, right now, we have to be direct: You gotta vote, and you gotta vote for Joe Biden and for every single Democratic candidate on your ballot. …

Almost nobody cooks with fresh pumpkin. We’ll spend hours carving them into ornate jack-o-lanterns, but when it comes time to make pumpkin pie or pumpkin soup or pumpkin whatever, we reach for the can. Halloween is Saturday. Pumpkins abound. If there was ever a time to think about cooking one, it’s now.

Yes, peeling and cubing a pumpkin takes some time, but in the recipes I’m suggesting, that constitutes the bulk of the work. …

For those times you find yourself saying, “Shit! What’s for dinner?” — we’re here to help. For our third installment of what to eat this week, we’ve got a trio with the potential for bold flavor — with two fast dishes and one that requires more commitment, largely unattended.

The carrot coconut soup marries coconut milk, Southeast Asian flavors, and a little heat for an unbeatable combination; it’s also a reminder that creamy soups are equally good without cream. The escabeche takes cues from cooks in Spain, the Caribbean, and some South American countries who often marinate food after cooking. …

Pot pies, in general, are a major project, which is probably why frozen pot pies remain so popular. But this recipe busts that myth into flaky bits and puts homemade pot pie on the table in an hour with very little effort.

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Chicken-and-Biscuit Pot Pie

Ingredients

  • 2½ cups milk, or more as needed
  • 2½ cups and 2 tablespoons flour, more as needed
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt, more as needed
  • ⅓ cup olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • 1 celery stalk, chopped
  • Pepper
  • 1 cup peas (frozen are fine)

Instructions

  1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Put the milk in a saucepan and warm over medium heat until just steaming (or heat in the microwave in 10-second intervals until just above body temperature). …

It’s inevitable that some days you haven’t planned dinner and the day sneaks up on you, which leads to the “Shit! What’s for dinner?” response. We have a few suggestions, whether it’s a spin on one of my favorites, something seasonal, something super fast and delicious, or a weeknight project worth the time.

This week’s picks start with a baked pasta: rich and gooey and always good for leftovers. And yes, baked ziti is comforting (something we’ll need more of in these days before the election and with the Covid uptick across the country). …

Lots of cuisines have variations of these crisp-on-one-side dumplings — gyoza in Japan and mandoo in Korea, to name just two. The combination fry-steam cooking method is somewhat miraculous if you’ve never tried it. They may be filled with pork, shrimp or other shellfish, vegetables, or a mixture of kimchi and whatever else, as the case is with mandoo. So once you get the knack, you can have some fun with your own filling combinations. No matter what, they should be immediately eaten right out of the pan.

Pot Stickers

Makes: 24 dumplings (4–8 servings)
Time: 30 to 45 minutes

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces (1 cup) pork, chicken, or other…

Paying more attention to how we feed ourselves is one of the good things that can come out of the pandemic. But it’s inevitable that some days you haven’t planned and the day sneaks up on you, which leads to the “Shit! What’s for dinner?” response. So we’ve decided to name our suggestions accordingly, where we’ll offer a few selections of what to cook every week, whether it’s a spin on one of my favorites, something seasonal, something super fast and delicious, or a weeknight project worth the time.

This week’s come from How to Cook Everything Fast and hit a couple of notes: the end-of-season cherry tomatoes at the farmers market; the nostalgia of an Italian American classic (but fast); and an Eastern European favorite without meat and all the work that cabbage rolls can entail. Read on for more. And if you have requests for future columns, let me know in the comments. …

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